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A
Acrylic Ruler:
A special, thick, acrylic ruler used in conjunction with a cutting mat, and rotary cutter to cut even strips and squares of fabric, in multiple layers.
Album Quilt:
A quilt assembled from individual blocks, each designed and/or executed by a different person. Album blocks are appliqued or pieced (or both), and frequently stitched into a quilt by a group for presentation to a public figure to commemorate a special occasion. In the past, blocks often were signed and dated by the maker in India ink or embroidery. Today, special markers are available for signing.
Amish Quilt:
Quilts done in the style of the Amish. Usually solid materials in deep hues. Patterns tend to be geometric with intense, heavy quilting, often feathers, scrolls, cables.
Appliqué:
Cutting a piece of one fabric and affixing it to another fabric. Usual methods of affixing: fusible webbing or sewing. Sewing may be done by hand or machine. Usual stitches used: buttonhole or blind stitch.
Assembly Piecing:
A method of machine piecing small quilt block units in one, continuous, stream, one right after another. The pieces are then snipped apart, pressed, and the next section is affixed in the same manner. Most common method for piecing the Log Cabin Block. Also called: Chain Piecing, Strip Piecing.
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B
Background:
The lighter or receding color fabrics in patchwork, or the base fabric onto which applique shapes are sewn.
Backing:
The "back" or bottom layer of a quilt. Backings are traditionally plain, that is, not pieced blocks. Backings may be one large piece, or several pieces sewn together. Also referred to as lining.
Backstitch:
Reverse machine stitching over previous stitches to "lock" the beginning of a seam. Traditionally, you sew 3-4 stitches, then use the reverse on your machine and stitch overtop those 3-4 stitches. (This can be done in hand stitching as well.)
Baltimore Album:
A style of album quilt, named for quilts made in Eastern Maryland between 1844 and 1855, featuring ornate applique and embroidery blocks.
Bargello:
Bargello quilts are made up of off-set squares of color in a rising or falling pattern. Strips of different fabrics are sewn together, then cut into smaller segments, and pieced together in a style in which there are "waves" or geometric patterns in the design.
Basting Spray:
An aerosol spray adhesive used to temporarily hold the quilt top, batting, and backing, while machine or hand quilting. Also great for holding pieces for appliqué.
Basting:
The process of temporarily holding quilt top, batting, and backing together during the quilting process. Basting methods include: thread basting, pin basting, fusible/spray basting.
Batik:
A method in which fabric is treated with a resist (usually wax) and then dyed to create interesting patterns. The resist keeps the dye from penetrating to that portion of the fabric allowing the underlying color to remain untouched. Interesting patterns and effects are created when the fabric is treated several times with this method and several colors of dye. Hoffman Fabrics of California is infamous for their line of batiks.
Batting:
The middle layer of the quilt sandwich. Batting is usually cotton, polyester, or wool. Batting can vary in thickness (loft) and warmth. Cotton battings tend to give quilts an "old-fashioned" look and feel while polyester battings tend to be easier for hand quilting.
Bearding:
The process in which the batting fibers of a quilt sandwich migrate to the top, or bottom, of the quilt via the holes produced from the quilting process. The result is a bit of fussiness on the quilt. Not attractive.
Beeswax:
Honeycomb material that has been melted, purified, and solidified into a block shape. Used by quilters to reduce tangling and fraying of thread. When hand-sewing thread is pulled across the block's surface, the thread accumulates just enough wax to pull smoothly through fabric and reduce wear on it.
Betweens:
Small, thin needles, with small eyes, used in hand quilting. Normal size ranges from 8 - 12. The higher the number, the finer the needle.
Bias Binding:
Binding, usually same as French Double Fold binding, with fabric that was cut on the bias as opposed to lengthwise or crosscut. This type of binding is necessary when binding curved edges, or other forms of non-rectangular quilt tops. It may also be stronger in that the edge of the quilt has bias threads. The wear and tear on threads that go the length of the quilt is more than when the threads are diagonally in-line with the quilt top. See my Bias Binding Tutorial for instructions on making bias binding.
Bias Square:
Half Square Triangles are often referred to as "Bias Squares" because they are divided in half, on the bias, with each side being a different fabric.
Bias:
The diagonal direction of the woven cloth. The bias forms a 45° angle to the cross grain, or lengthwise grain (warp/weft), of the fabric. The bias tends to be more stretchy than the rest of the fabric and thus requires extra care when piecing.
Binding:
A strip of fabric used to cover the raw edges of the quilt sandwich and thus, finish the quilt. There are several variations of binding used with the most popular being the French Double Fold binding.
Birthing:
The method of layering the quilt sandwich, top, backing (right sides together, batting, then sewing 1/4" all the way around the perimeter of the quilt, leaving a 6-8" opening for turning, then turn the sandwich right sides out as you would a pillow case. You should then be able to fold down the opening seam allowance and blind stitch it closed. You would then tie or machine quilt the sandwich as normal. This method eliminates the need for binding.
Blanket Stitch:
An L-shaped hand or machine stitch used for stitching the edges of an appliqué to the background fabric.
Blocking:
The act of bringing a quilt block back to square. Usually involves the usage of pinning the square to a gridded ironing service, and using steam iron to coax the block back into square. Also referred to as "squaring up", the act of using a square acrylic ruler to trim excess fabric from block, thus, making it square.
Block:
A basic unit of a quilt top. A block might be a pieced block, or a solid piece of fabric. Blocks may be square, rectangular, or appliquéd pieces.
Bluework:
Same as Redwork but with blue thread.
Border Print:
A print designed to be used as the border on a quilt. The design runs parallel to the selvege of the fabric. Jinny Beyer is a popular quilt fabric designer when it comes to border prints.
Border:
The outer edge of a quilt top. Borders are often used to frame the inner, pieced quilt top. Borders may be straight sections of fabric, or pieced together into strips. Seminole borders are a popular, pieced style. Quilts may have more than one border.
Broadcloth:
A slightly meatier cotton fabric with thicker warp and weft strands. Normally found only in solid colors.
Broderie Perse:
From the French for "Persian embroidery," a technique in which a printed motif, usually a flower or animal, is cut from fabric and appliqued onto a plain background.
Bubble Jet Set:
Also known as BJS. This is a chemical used for pre-treating cotton fabric. The fabric is then able to be directly printed on using a standard Bubble Jet printer. The resultant image is colorfast and permanent. This is a great product to use for Album quilt blocks, or Memory Quilt blocks. Read my tutorial on printing with BJS here.
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C
Calico:
A 100% cotton fabric with any small, usually flowers, repeated pattern on it. A typical fabric to use for "traditionally" themed quilts. (In Great Britain, a Calico is what Americans call a Muslin.)
Cathedral Window:
A particular quilt block that makes use of fabric folding to reveal an inner window of a different fabric.
Celtic Quilting:
Intricately designed quilts using thin, bias tubings/strips in the form or the Celtic. (pronounced Keltic)
Chain Piecing:
A method of machine piecing small quilt block units in one, continuous, stream, one right after another. The pieces are then snipped apart, pressed, and the next section is affixed in the same manner. Most common method for piecing the Log Cabin Block. Also called: Strip Piecing, Assembly Line Piecing.
Challenge:
A quilt making contest, usually on a small scale, that involves established guidelines and usually, specific fabric requirements. Perhaps the most famous Challenge is the Hoffman's Annual Quilt Challenge sponsored by Hoffman Fabrics of California.
Charm Quilt:
A quilt made up of "block" units that are all the same shape/size but all different fabrics. The pieces are generally small (less than 5", but most commonly 2" or less) and are common themes for fabric swaps on the Internet or with a guild.
Charm Square:
A smallish, unique piece of fabric used in Charm Quilts. Often swapped with friends or on the Internet.
Cheater's Cloth:
See Cheater's Panel.
Cheater's Panel:
A piece of fabric printed with quilt block design, made to look like a pieced or appliquéd quilt top. It can then be sandwiched, and quilted just as a standard pieced quilt. (Also called Cheater's Cloth.)
Chintz:
Chintz is a cotton fabric that has been treated in a special process such that the surface is shiny, or has a sheen to it. Often seen as large, floral prints. This was common in the Civil War era and more often seen in uses such as curtains and upholstery coverings.
Clamshell:
One quilting design in which overlapping circles (often made with glasses or plates, or since the late 90's, old CD-Rom discs) create shapes that are reminiscent of clams.
Clip:
The process of using scissors to "snip" short cuts along outer and inner curves in patchwork (or clothing) piecing. The "clip" is taken so that it does not cross the seam line. It allows the curve to spread out, thus easing it into the item being sewn.
Combed Cotton:
Combed cotton is a woven cotton in which the cotton has been combed to reduce the number of short, uneven fibers. This fabric usually has a softer hand (feel).
Corner Square Triangle:
A means of "cutting off" the corner of a square by using a triangle of another fabric. The triangle is created by attaching a square of fabric at one corner, sewing on the diagonal line of the square, pressing towards outer edge of background square, and trimming excess away from the corner square. Thus producing a triangle of a different fabric at the corner of the background square.
Crazy Patch:
A quilt square comprised of fabric made in the crazy quilt manner. That is, fabrics are haphazardly joined together in random shapes. Normally, the fabric is attached to some type of foundation, and then cut into squares or rectangles, and pieced into a project.
Crazy Quilt:
Term used for quilts that are made up of "crazy pieced" blocks. That is, scraps of all different types of fabric are sewn to a background fabric using decorative stitches to join the seams. Pattern pieces are usually irregularly shaped. Crazy quilts were popular in the Victorian age when young girls pieced together these quilts to display their sewing skills. Often times, the ornate stitching is what makes the quilt stand out from other quilts.
Cross Hatching:
A quilting pattern used to fill in background, or void, spaces. Diagonal lines, equidistant apart, are hand or machine quilted in one direction, and then in the opposite direction, to form diamond or squares.
Curved Piecing:
The process of sewing a convex edge of fabric to a concave seam of fabric. Commonly seen in the Drunkard's Path block.
Cutting Mat:
A special mat with a thick, durable surface, lined with measuremenets, used in conjunction with an acrylic ruler and rotary cutter to cut mulitple layers of fabric in strips and squares. The surface of most cutting mats is "self-healing" in that the grooves left from the rotary cutter blade are filled in after usage.
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D
Darning Foot:
A special sewing machine foot used for free motion quilting. It holds the fabric down only when the needle is coming out of the fabric. Foot has a spring on it to ease the up and down motion it takes.
Directional Print:
A piece of fabric that has an obvious directional (horizontal/vertical) print, such as stripes. Care must be taken to ensure that the direction aligned in all patchwork pieces.
Double Fold French Binding:
See French Fold Binding.
Dual Feed Foot:
See Walking Foot
Dupion:
A type of silk. May be real or artificial, but it is characterized by its surface texture which is usually textured, or has slubs (little surface "knots," so to speak) on it. Would be more often used in a Crazy Quilt.
Dye Magnet:
A piece of untreated, bleached terry cotton affixed to a piece of core that keeps it affloat in the wash water. Its purpose is to collect loose dyes in wash water. It can be bleached and reused after it gets too dingy. Very old white towels can serve a similar purpose. Dye Magnets are available at most retail and fabric stores. (Currently, it is made by Woolite.)
Make your own Dye Magnet! Take an old white washcloth, or sock, and drop it in the wash. It will work almost as good as the original. You could even get a piece of foam core board, small, and sew it into a fabric sleeve, than sew that sleeve to your washcloth. (The foamcore will help keep the dye magnet afloat in the wash water.)
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E
Ease:
The process of fitting two irregular pieces, or two different length pieces, together while sewing. Common for sewing curved pieces together.
Echo Quilting:
A method of quilting by which the stitches outline, run parrallel, to an existing motif or piece in the quilt.
Electric Quilt:
A software package that enables the quilter to design his/her own quilt tops.
English Paper Piecing:
A method of quilt assembly in which paper templates are used to help turn under the seam allowances. Papers are generally left in the quilt top until all pieces have been joined together, and then removed for future use. There are also newer varieties of this option using plastick templates, commonly called "Patis.
Even Feed Foot:
See Walking Foot
Eye Spy Quilt:
The style of quilt in which novelty prints are fussy cut and assembled randomly in pairs to create a "memory" game style quilt for a child. Common block styles are hexagon, triange, or just squares. Also called "I Spy Quilts."
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F
Fat Eighth:
1/4 yard of fabric cut in half at the middle fold. (Creating a rectangle approx. 9" wide by 22" length) There are 8 fat eighths (commonly referred to as FE) in one yard of fabric.
Fat Quarter:
1/2 yard of fabric cut in half at the middle fold. (Creating a rectangle approx. 18" wide by 22" length) There are 4 fat quarters (commonly referred to as FQ) in one yard of fabric.
Fat Sixteenth:
1/16 yard of fabric. One yard of fabric is cut in half at the middle fold, then cut each of those halves are cut in half 3 times more. This creates a rectangle approx. 9" wide by 22" length.
Feed Dogs:
The mechanical teeth under the presser foot area of a sewing machine which move to pull the fabric through the machine. When free motion quilting, these feed dogs are lowered or covered.
Feedsacks:
Bags that were once used to hold flour, corn, meal, the like, in the early 1900's. These bags are highly coveted by quilters today, and the material is usually still in good enough condition for quilting.
Filler Quilting:
A method of filling in large, open spaces on a quilt top (either by machine or hand quilting). Usually done in a cross hatch pattern.
Filling:
Same as batting.
Finger Pressing:
Pressing a seam allowance using a finger tip, or a small wooden tool. (Hera)
Finished Size:
The final sewn measurement or dimensions of a completed block without seam allowances. Thus a 3" sewn measurement block would be cut 3.5" to allow for 1/4" seam allowances (the quilting standard).
Flange:
An inside decorative border element, or an outside border, in which a strip of fabric is folded wrong sides together, and sewn into the quilt, or as a decoration of a pillow. Think of a pillow sham, it is the outer fabric surrounding the sham. In a quilt, the flange is often inserted as a border in between the quilt top and an outer border, or between two borders. Think of piping but without the cord inside the piping that makes it stiffer.
Adding A Flange:
Measure the height of your quilt top.
Determine the width of your desired finished flange.
Multiply the width by 2, and add 1/2" for the seam allowances.
Cut your strip by that measurement, by the height.
Fold the strip in half, wrong sides together, and attach to your quilt top aligning the raw edges of the flange with the raw edges of the top, and the next outside border. Pin in place.
Sew on with a 1/4" seam allowance.
Repeat for the top and bottom borders.
For a cleaner appearance, attach the flange in between two borders, then attach the whole large border using a mitered seam.
Foundation Paper Piecing:
A method of using a pattern that has been previously drawn on a piece of paper, as a guide for constructing a quilt block. The fabric pieces are sewn right onto the paper using the drawn lines as a guide. Great for piecing complicated blocks and miniature blocks. Also know as just "paper piecing."
Foundation Piecing:
A method of assembling a quilt block by sewing pieces onto a foundation of muslin or other fabric. Adds stability to delicate fabrics as well as stabelising bias Some variations include foundation piecing on paper or newsprint.
Four Patch Block:
A patchwork block made up of 4 units of the same size. This would also be applicable to any block that is made up of multiples of 4.
Free Motion Quilting:
A method of machine quilting in which the feed dogs are lowered or covered, so that the quilt is guided through the sewing machine entirely at will by the hands of the quilter. See also stipling or meander quilting. Often referred to as "Fremo" quilting.
Freezer Paper Appliqué:
A method of appliqué in which a piece is drawn onto the dull side of freezer paper, and then ironed onto the wrong side of the fabric. The seam allowances can then be eased to the backside of the piece using the freezer paper as a guide. The freezer paper is then removed after the piece is sewn to its neighbor, or to its background foundation.
Freezer paper is used by butchers to wrap meat. It can also be found at most grocery stores in the paper section. The most common brand is Reynolds in a blue box.
Fremo:
Short name for Free Motion Quilting.
French Fold Binding:
Binding that is traditionally made with one wide strip, folded in half, wrong sides facing. The raw edges of the strip are aligned and sewn to the raw edges of the quilt top, mitering the corners, and then the folded edge is rolled to the back and either machine, or hand stitched down. This creates a more durable binding on the edges where the quilt may take a lot of abuse. Fabric strip may be cut on the bias for curves, or on the cross grain for straight edges. (Also sometimes referred to as Double Fold French Binding.)
French Seam:
A seam in which raw edges are enclosed within the seam allowance. You put your fabrics wrong sides together and make an approximately 1/8" seam allowance. Then, flip the fabric over, right sides together, and sew the normal 1/4" seam allowance. The raw edges will then be enclosed.
This is a good option when making quilted totes. Leave about 1" from the edge of your quilt tote fabric without any quilting. Then, after you do your 1/8" seam allowance, trim the batting out from the seam allowance, flip it over, and finish the seam.
Friendship Quilt:
Similar to an album quilt, blocks made up of signatures are then sewn together into one quilt.
Frog Stitching:
A nickname given to unsewing, that is "rip-it, rip-it, rip-it."
Fusible:
Various webbing or interfacing materials which can be ironed onto a fabric for easier appliqué or to support the fabric. The pieces are normally then reinforced by means of hand or machine appliqué stitches.
Fussy Cut:
The method of cutting pieces of fabric as to focus on an object of element displayed in the fabric. Common method of making novelty prints for children's quilts, or "eye-spy" quilts.
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G
Gingham:
Checked cotton fabric. As this would be a directional print, care should be used when cutting it for use in quilts. Due to the built in design, it would be a nice choice for borders. Consideration should be taken though as many ginghams are of an inferior fabric.
Glazed Finish:
A thin resin finish which can be applied to a batting, or another type which can be put on a fabric. For batting it helps to prevent bearding and shifting of the fibers in the finished quilt. Sometimes called a bonded finish.
Grain:
The lengthwise and crosswise threads of a woven fabric. The lengthwise grain, parallel to the selvage, has the least amount of stretch. Crosswise grain, perpendicular to the selvage, has a little more give. For best results, the grain should run in the same direction on all pieces of a quilt block and on the sashing and borders. The edge of any piece that will be on the outside edge of the block or the quilt should always be cut on the straight grain.
Greige:
Fabric straight from the loom. It has not been printed on, dyed, nor treated in any way. It is pronounced "gray". Often times, retail chain fabric stores may carry the same print as a Local Quilt Shop, but with an inferior greige base. (So, is the infamous rumor in textiles.)
Guild:
An organization of quilters in a community who meet on a regular basis (usually monthly) to discuss quilting. Guilds are also known for creating charity quilts to give to their local communities. Small guilds are often called "mini-groups."
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H
Half Square Triangle:
A square that is made up of two different triangles of fabric. Common method of making these squares is to take two fabric squares, right sides facing, draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the lightest fabric, and stitch a seam 1/4" away from that diagonal line, on both sides of the line. The blocks are then cut apart on the diagonal line, pressed, and squared up. The result is two half square triangle blocks. (Known commonly as HST blocks.)
Hand Dye:
Fabric that has been hand dyed using a process that creates soft, subtle gradations in the fabric for a mottled look. Sometimes called batiks also, although, batiks are treated with a resist and standard Hand Dyed fabrics are not. Hoffman Fabrics of California is infamous for their Bali hand dyed fabrics.
Hand Quilting Stitch:
A small, even, running stitch sewn through all 3 layers of the quilt sandwich in the quilting process. Modern computerized sewing machines can create this look by using monofilament thread in the top, and standard thread in the bobbin. The bobbin thread comes up only every other stitch, giving the look of hand quilting.
Hand Quilting:
The method of quilting done by hand, not machine. Normally, a quilting pattern is applied to the quilt top using templates and chalk pencils. The quilt sandwich is then inserted into some type of frame or loop to hold the sandwich taute while hand quilting. Generally, running stitches are used, thus, the threads on the top are about the same length and distance apart as they appear on the bottom of the quilt.
Hand:
The aesthetic feel or tactile quality of fabric. We say that fabric has a nice "hand" when it is smooth, soft, and feels good to the touch.
Hanging Sleeve:
A tube (sleeve) sewn on the back top of the quilt in order to hang the quilt for display. Usually approximately 3-4" wide and attached during the binding attachment process.
Hawaiian Appliqué:
A method of appliqué by which large floral shaped, solid-color pieces are stitched onto a white background. Developed by Hawaiian native quilters. Hawaiian Appliqué also makes frequent usage of Reverse Appliqué by which the foreground fabric is cut away to reveal the backing fabric.
Hera:
A small wooden tool, with one slanted edges, used for "finger pressing" a seam allowance.
Homespun:
Fabric that is either handwoven, or made to appear as handwoven, with larger, thicker diameter threads used. The weave tends to be looser. Available commercially at most stores. A favorite to make Rag Quilts.
Hoop:
A large pair of wooden rings sized so that one fits inside the other, which is sometimes used instead of a frame to keep the layers of a quilt taut and even during the quilting process. A hoop is more portable than a quilt frame. It is similar to an embroidery hoop, although larger.
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I
I Spy Quilt:
The style of quilt in which novelty prints are fussy cut and assembled randomly in pairs to create a "memory" game style quilt for a child. Common block styles are hexagon, triange, or just squares. Also called "Eye Spy Quilts."
In The Ditch:
A method of quilting by which the stitch is placed in, or as close to, an existing seam allowance. When machine quilting, the presser foot will generally ride along side the hump formed by the seam allowances on one side of a pieced pair, and thus, stitch in the "ditch" of that seam allowance.
In-set Seam:
See set-in seam.
Invisible Stitch:
A hand stitch used most commonly for applique and binding. The needle slides 1/8 to 1/4" through the folded edge of fabric, then takes two or three threads of the base fabric. Thus, the thread disappears in the folded edge, and the stitch appears invisible.
Invisible Thread:
Also known as "transparent thread." A very fine nylon thread often used for affixing appliqué pieces as it is almost invisible. Also called Monofilament thread.
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J
Jinny Beyer:
A professional quilt artist/designer famous for her vibrant quilt designs, many of them 3-dimensional, and her line of fabrics made by RJR fabrics. She has popularized the usage of Border Prints in quilting to create Kaleidoscopic style quilt designs.
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K
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L
Label:
A piece of fabric that has been signed with permanent ink, to document the origins of a quilt. Normally affixed to the lower left corner of the back of a quilt. Labels are normally required for any quilt entered into a contest. Labels may document: maker, recipient, quilt name, date completed, as well as care instructions.
Lap Quilting:
A method of completing all three layers by quilting one block or section at a time and then assembling the finished quilt from those pre-quilted squares. Squares are quilted in small lap frames or held in the hands rather than using a large quilting frame.
Another definition:
The act of quilting without a frame or hoop. The quilt is held in the lap and quilted.
Lattice Strips:
See Sashing.
Lawn Fabric:
Cotton Lawn fabric is a finely woven, greater than 200 thread count, cotton that has a very smooth surface. This is the common fabric used for Hoffman Bali Handdyes and batiks.
Layering:
The process of creating a quilt "sandwich." That is, placing your backing, right side down, your batting, and then your quilt top, right side up, on top of each other in preparation for basting, and then quilting.
Lining:
The "back" or bottom layer of a quilt. Backings are traditionally plain, that is, not pieced blocks. Linings may be one large piece, or several pieces sewn together. Also referred to as backing.
Loft:
Term for the thickness, height and resilience of quilt batting. High loft batting is thicker and fluffier, usually polyester, and used more often for tied quilts. Low loft batting is thinner and shows off the quilting stitches.
Log Cabin:
Perhaps one of the most popular, traditional blocks, this block begins with a center square, usually red or yellow, that is then surrounded by long, narrow strips, or logs. These logs are usually sewn on in an orderly fashion, moving clockwise around the center square with each strip addition. Commonly, the strips will become darker as they move to the outer sides of the block. Variations are: courthouse steps and pineapple block.
Long Arm Quilting:
Machine quilting done by a long armed machine. Normally only done on a commercial basis due to the size (14feet+) of the machine and the cost of the machine.
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M
Machine Quilting:
The method of quilting a quilt sandwich using a sewing machine (and walking foot instead of the traditional method of hand quilting with needle and thread.
Meander Quilting:
A style of quilting that is done with the feed dogs down, or covered, and the quilt sandwich guided through the machine with the hands, in lose motions, closely together, but without any lines crossing over each other.
Medallion:
A central, usually large, block or patterned area on a quilt top, defined in some way by space or a border. The center is often a large square on point.
Memory Quilt:
A quilt made up of blocks to commerate an occasion. Common Memory Quilt themes: Wedding, Retirement, Birthday. The individual quilt blocks can be made up of signature blocks, direct printed photo blocks, theme related blocks (i.e. a schoolhouse block for graduation).
Mercerized Cotton:
A treatment of cotton thread which consists of immersing the yarn in a solution of sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) for short periods of time, while held under tension. The yarn is then stronger and more lustrous and takes the dye better with brighter, deeper colors. This effect of caustic soda on cotton was discovered in 1844 by John Mercer, an English calico printer and his name gave the process the name "mercerize".
Mini Group:
An organization of quilters in a community who meet on a regular basis (usually monthly) to discuss quilting. Mini Groups are often much smaller than their larger counterpart, the Guild.
Miniature Quilt:
Quilts made on a much smaller scale than a full sized quilt. Blocks tend to be 2-3" large. Paper piecing is a common method to use for miniature quilts.
Miter:
Method of joining two seams so that they form a 45° angle. Often used for binding corners and for making the joint of the window panes of an Attic Window block.
Monofilament:
A synthetic thread, clear or smoke colored in nature. Similar to a very fine fishing line. This thread is used to produce seemingly invisible quilting. Also used when attempting to achieve the hand quilted look by machine.
Motif:
A design element, image or drawing used on a quilt block or for an appliqué. An example is a quilt using a "heart motif" or other theme image. The Motif may also refer to the quilting method/design used.
Muslin:
Perhaps THE Quilter's staple, muslin is a woven fabric, undyed, that is often used for quilt backings, background fabric for appliqué, or foundation fabric for crazy quilting, or foundation piecing. At one time, muslin was a fine quality good, but today, it is available in many different qualities and thread counts, and unbleached or bleached.
Mystery Quilt:
A quilt pattern that is released to the recipients, step-by-step, to hide the final appearance of the finished quilt.
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N
Needle Punched:
One of the manufacturing processes used to make some types of quilt batting of cotton or wool. Thousands of barbed needles are punched through the carded fibers to lock them into position to help prevent bearding and shifting of the batting in the finished quilt. A needle punched batting allows quilting to be placed further apart than un-treated batting does.
Needle Turn:
A method of appliqué in which the seam allowance of the piece is "turned under" by the needle as the piece is stitched to the background fabric.
Needle:
A piece of metal with an eye in one end, in which thread is guided, that is used for joining patchwork pieces together. A term used for the ease of which a needle glides through fabric or a quilt sandwich. If a fabric "needles" well, that means it is easy to glide a needle into.
Novelty:
While this definition may vary from person to person, novelty fabrics are generally those fabrics composed of playful objects, bright colorful designs. Generally something you might consider "childish" but may also have motifs such as sewing instruments and such on them. Sometimes also called "Conversation" prints.
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O
On Point:
An arrangement of quilt blocks where each one is turned at a 45° angle to the horizontal and vertical edges of the quilt. The setting is then of course, a diagonal setting. The quilt is finished off with side setting triangles and corner triangles.
Orvus:
A common detergent used in cleaning quilts. Because of the nature of the cleanser, it is NOT recommended for usage on Bubble Jet Set quilts or labels.
Outline Quilting:
A method of hand or machine quilting in which the stitches are spaced between 1/4" and 1/2" away from the seam line.
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P
PFD:
Prepared For Dyeing:
This refers to fabric that has had no chemical treatments, thus, will absorb dye better.
Pantogram:
Pantogram comes from the word Pantograph which is the process of copying a piece of work by using a stylus and tracing over the original pattern with a marking instrument tracing onto the new pattern. Likewise in quilting, a Pantogram is quilting produced on a quilt, normally using a longarm machine, in which the quilter follows along a pattern, usually carved into wood, with a stylus, causing the machine to create the same pattern on the quilt. These patterns are usually followed from border-to-border producing an allover design that is done row-by-row.
Paper Piecing:
See Foundation Paper Piecing. Also known as Paper Foundation Piecing (PFP)
Patchwork:
Generally refers to the process of combining fabric pieces to make a quilt top.
Penny Squares:
Small simple designs marked on muslin quilt block patterns for embroidery which were popular in the late 1800s and after. They cost one cent each, the look was similar to the redwork patterns popular later.
Pieced Block:
A quilt block that is made up of individual pieces of cut fabric that have been resewn together in some fashion.
Piecing:
The process of sewing two pieces of fabric together, along a common sized edge, to form a larger, whole piece of fabric.
Pillow Tuck:
Extra length planned into a quilt's design to accommodate the thickness of pillows under the quilt. Standard pillow tuck measures 8 to 11".
Pima:
A higher-quality cotton created in Pima County, AZ, United States, that is strong and has a more silky hand. With a thread count greater than 205, it is not recommended for hand quilting.
Pin Basting:
The process of basting the quilt sandwich using safety pins, normally bent safety pins, to hold the layers of the sandwich together. Pins are generally spaced approximately 3-5" apart and are normally removed during the quilting process.
Postage Stamp Quilt:
A style of quilting in which all of the pieces in the quilt are the size, approximately, of a postage stamp. Similar to a charm square quilt.
There was an episode on HGTV's Simply Quilts regarding postage stamp quilts.
Prairie Points:
Squares of fabric that are folded into triangles. Often used as an edging, prairie points also can be sewn into other seams.
Pre-Washing:
The act of pre-washing fabric before cutting and sewing it into a quilt top. Pre-washing is a good idea to prevent one fabric color from bleeding onto another, and for pre-shrinking the fabric.
Pressing:
The motion of lifting an iron up and down on a pieced block to "set" the seam. Not the same as "ironing" in which the iron is moved back and forth across fabric.
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Q
Quillow:
A special kind of quilt that folds itself into an attached pillowcase. Similar to a sleeping bag. Quillows are normally tied instead of hand or machine quilted.
Quilt As You Go:
A method of assembling a quilt by which each square is pieced, sandwiched, and quilted before it is attached to the next square in the quilt. Similar to Lap Quilting.
Quilt Frame:
A large, free standing device, made of wood or plastic piping, that a quilt is basted to, in order to enable easy hand quilting. Some Quilt Frames have several poles that enable the user to baste the quilt right on the frame without using pins or threads.
Quilt Guild:
see Guild.
Quilt Top:
The completed top portion of the quilt sandwich, after all squares have been pieced together, and borders added.
Quilting Bee:
A gathering of quilters with the goal of making a quilt together. Common in the Amish land.
Quilting:
The process of doing quilted work.
a.Material used to make quilts.
b.Material that has been quilted.
The act of stitching or running in patterns, as in making a quilt.
A quilting bee.
The material used for making quilts.
(Naut.) A coating of strands of rope for a water vessel.
A design stitched through layers of fabric and a filling.
A material used for making a quilt, or a quilted fabric.
Quilt:
A coverlet or blanket made of two layers of fabric with a layer of cotton, wool, feathers, or down in between, all stitched firmly together, usually in a decorative crisscross design. A thick protective cover similar to or suggestive of a quilt.
To make into a quilt by stitching (layers of fabric) together.
To construct like a quilt: quilt a skirt.
To pad and stitch ornamentally.
To make a quilt.
To do quilted work.
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R
Rag Quilt:
A quilt that is completely assembled with raw edge seam allowances exposed. The typical method involves creating small sandwiches of backing fabric, batting, and top fabric (the batting being 1" less in size than the other pieces). These sandwiches are then quilted. They are sewn together with the seam allowances facing the same side. Once assembled, the seam allowances are snipped at approximately 1" intervals. After the seam edges have been fluffed (by means of washing), the edges appear to be "ragged" or that of a very old frayed towel.
Raw Edge:
The unsewn edge of a piece of fabric used in a quilt block or appliqué block.
Redwork:
Simple embroidery designs worked in running stitch in either turkey red color or in blue ( Bluework) and used for quilt blocks. These were popular in the 20's and 30's. Embroidery using red thread. Traditionally, animal themes, children's themes, nature themes, and kitchen themes.
Repeat:
The number of inches between a repeated pattern/motif in a piece of fabric.
Retayne:
A product used when washing fabric to prevent commercial dyes from running or bleeding.
Reverse Appliqué:
A method of appliqué in which the top piece of fabric is cut away to reveal the background fabric underneath. The raw edges are turned under and finished as in any appliqué method.
Rotary Cutter:
A device with a round razor-sharp blade used in conjunction with a cutting mat, and special acrylic ruler to cut even strips and squares of fabric. Normally, one can layer up to 6 layers of fabric to cut through.
Round Robin:
A popular swap among a group of quilters. A small piece of a quilt is started by each, then sent to the next quilter who adds to it, then it moved to the next and so on. When the Swap is complete each quilter has back the original piece with the additions of everyone else in the group. Row Swap - a type of round robin swap, but each addition is a row of the quilt rather than blocks or other free form additions.
Ruching:
A process whereby a fabric piece is tucked and gathered before it is appliqued onto a background fabric; often seen in classic Baltimore Album quilts.
Ruler:
See acrylic ruler.
Running Stitch:
A hand-needlework technique in which the needle accumulates several stitches on it before needle and thread are drawn through the cloth. The running stitch is used in both piecing and quilting.
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S
SITD:
See Stitch-In-The-Ditch quilting.
Sampler:
A quilt top in which each block is a different design or style. A popular "beginner" style quilt to give experience in many different quilt block patterns and styles.
Sandwich:
A common name for the package that is the quilt top, the batting, and the backing.
Sashiko:
A method of quilting in which large stitches are made on the top of the quilt top, with small stitches on the back, using embroidery or crewel style thread. The stitches usually create intricate patterns with no intersecting stitches. Originating in Japan as a form of mending clothing, sashiko is usually done with white thread on indigo fabric.
Sashing:
The strips of fabric that are sewn between adjacent blocks in a quilt top. (Sometimes also a term used for a border.)
Satin Stitching:
Very short, closely stitched, zig-zag stitches commonly used to affix the raw edges of appliqué pieces.
Scrap Quilt:
Typically, a quilt made up of many, many, different fabrics. Commonly "scraps" of fabric left over from other quilt projects. Swaps are commonly held to give each participant enough different fabric to have a "scrappy" feel to their quilt project.
Scrim:
Scrim is a very fine, often synthetic, layer on the top of popular battings which helps to keep the fibers compressed. A batting with a fine layer of scrim is less likely to shred, tear, and beard during quilting.
Seam Allowance:
The measurement of fabric between the stitched seam line and the raw edge of the joined pieces. In patchwork quilt making, the standard seam allowance is 1/4".
Seam:
The junction of two pieces of fabric, that is, the stitched line joining the two pieces.
Secret Tacking:
A quilting technique in which the needle and thread travel through the filler between stitches. Secret tacking forms stitches that are farther apart than those produced by a running stitch, but closer together and less visible than the knots produced by tacking.
Selvage:
The finished edge of a piece of fabric, parallel to the lengthwise grain, that is usually tightly woven. Since the selvage shrinks at a different rate than the rest of the fabric, and is hard to needle, selvage is usually cut off before measuring and sewing fabric pieces together.
Seminole:
A technique devised by the Seminole Indians of Florida in which strips of fabric are sewn together, then cut into segments and resewn to create intricate geometric designs. This technique is often used for quilt borders or quilted clothing.
Serger:
A special type of sewing machine that does overcast stitching along the edge, using 3 or more strands of thread, and also cuts off the excess fabric from the seam at the same time.
Set-In Seam:
Sewing a patchwork piece into the corner, or angle, formed by two already joined pieces. Also referred to as an "inset seam."
Setting Block:
A block used with pieced or appliquéd blocks in a quilt top. Can be a solid block or another pieced block. May vary in size, especially along the edges of the quilt top.
Setting Triangle:
In a diagonal, or "on point" setting, the triangle used to fill in the space around the perimeter of a quilt top.
Shadow Appliqué:
Appliqué done using a see-through fabric such as silk organza or polyester netting to shade or shadow the images. The transparency of the fabric gives a different color look to the areas covered.
Shape Cut:
A special template/ruler by June Taylor with special cutouts with which to rotary cut, quickly and easily, many strips and shapes at the same time.
Sharps:
Another style of needle that is short, thin, with a very sharp tip. Used primarily for piecing.
Sheeting:
A very finely woven, over 200 thread count, piece of cotton fabric, normally used in bed linens.
Shibori:
Shibori is a method of resist dyeing in which fabric is folded, twisted, tied, or otherwise managed, in order to create a resist pattern. The portions of fabrics concealed by the manipulation "resist" the dye and remain the original color of the fabric, while the dye penetrates to other areas of the fabric. This process creates original, non duplicable, pieces of fabric art.
The sample shown is a small section of an 18" x 42" piece of Kona cotton that was wrapped diagonally around a 12" section of pvc pipe, then scrunched down on the pipe tightly. It was then tied to hold it, and treated with Procion Mx Dyes. You can see the areas that are wavy, or lighter, are the areas in which the dye didn't quite penetrate, so that is the "resist" for which shibori is known. The sample is probably the most popular example of Shibori.
Shirred Border:
A border, usually inserted between two inner borders, of a quilt in which the fabric has been gathered to create a more 3-dimensional appearance. Often seen in Heirloom quilts.
Siggie:
See Signature Block.
Signature:
Blocks that are signed by many different individuals. These are common blocks to use in block swaps on the Internet, or in a guild. Each person signs his/her block with something special and the blocks are then combined, either on their own or, with other pieced blocks, to form a special quilt. Also called "Siggie" blocks. Signature labels affixed to the back of a quilt to acknowledge the quilt recipient, quilt maker, and other pertinent information.
Silk:
A type of fabric woven from protein threads produced by certain caterpillars. This fabric is very smooth and luxurious, and often used in crazy quilts.
Slip Stitch:
Another style of stitching used in appliqué in which small, evenly spaced stitches, are taken between the piece and the background. Also the common style of stitch for hand sewing down binding to the back of a quilt sandwich.
Squaring Up:
The process of trimming patchwork blocks, or quilt tops, so that each corner forms a 90° angle.
Squishie:
(Or Squishy) A nickname for the envelope containing fabric that is wrapped in plastic and sent to others in fabric, or block, swaps.
Squishy:
See squishie.
Stack and Slash:
Similar to "Stack and Whack", a method of stacking pieces of fabric on top of each other, cutting, and then rearranging so that fabric A is sewn to fabric B creating unusual stars and other designs.
Stack and Whack:
A method of creating kaleidoscope style blocks using repeats in fabric. Bethany Reynolds is commonly credited for this method.
Stained Glass:
A style of quilting meant to resemble a real stained glass window pane. That is, pieces of glass joined together with some type of leading, usually copper. The pieces are often vibrant hand dyed or batik fabrics.
Stash:
Common name for a quilter's fabric collection.
Stay Stitching:
Stitching done 1/8" inside of a seam allowance used to help stabilize a stretchy edge. In quilting, you might stay stitch a triangle that will be pieced with the bias edge facing the outer edge of the quilt. In this case, you should draw your cutting line on the piece *before* cutting, stay stitch 1/8" from that line, and then cut the triangle. Doing so will help prevent that bias edge from stretching as it is pieced into the final quilt. The stay stitching can remain in the quilt for added stability. Since it is done within the seam allowance, it will not be visible on the quilt top.
Stencils:
Shapes cut out of template plastic or cardboard/paper used to mark a quilt top with quilting designs.
Stipple Quilting:
See Stipple.
Stipple:
Closely spaced machine or hand quilting stitches that form squiggly lines, but do not cross over each other. A common style of "filler" quilting. Stipple quilting is a great way to quickly quilt a project. When done by the machines, the feed dogs are either lowered, or covered, so that the quilter feeds the sandwich through the machine using their hands.
Stitch In The Ditch:
A form of quilting, either by machine or hand, in which the quilting stitches are placed right in the seams of the patch pieces, or just along that seam, thus, "in the ditch" of the seam. This is a common form of machine quilting for new quilters and is a good alternative when you are using fussy cut fabric pieces.
Stitches Per Inch:
The number of stitches quilted per inch of fabric. When hand quilting, only the stitches appearing on the top of the quilt are counted.
Straight Stitch Foot:
The common name for the standard presser foot on most sewing machines.
String Piecing:
Similar to crazy quilting, the process of randomly joining similarly sized pieces of fabric or scraps together to form a larger piece of fabric, which is then either joined together with another string pieced fabric strip, or cut into smaller pieces for squares or appliqué.
Strip Piecing:
A method of machine piecing small quilt block units in one, continuous, stream, one right after another. The pieces are then snipped apart, pressed, and the next section is affixed in the same manner. Most common method for piecing the Log Cabin Block. Also called: Chain Piecing, Assembly (line) piecing.
Strip Set:
A name given to the pieces that make up strip piecing. For example, when making a 9 patch block, you use 2 strips of one fabric, and one strip of another, joined together. The result is called a "strip set."
Strip:
A piece of fabric that is cut the length of the Width Of Fabric, and then cut a particular width.
Stuffing:
See Batting. This term is most often used in countries other than the United States.
The cotton of other material used to fill the cavity of pillows or soft dolls. You might also use small pieces when creating Trapunto effects in quilts.
Summer Quilt:
A quilt made of only a quilt top, and a backing, commonly used in the hotter months of the summer.
Swap:
An exchange of fabric or pieced squares, by a group of quilters, either from a guild, or via the Internet, or some other forum. Each participant follows the established guidelines of the swap in color, fabric, and block selection. In centralized swaps, all participants send their contribution to the host/hostess who then confirm that the piece meets the published guidelines, and then redistributes the pieces to each participant, ensuring that nobody receives the same contribution to which they sent. In decentralized swaps, each participant receives a mailing list with the names and addresses of each of the other participants, and sends their contribution directly to the other participants on the mail list.
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T
TOT:
See Tone-on-Tone Fabrics.
Tacking Gun:
Similar to a pricing gun used at retail stores, this device inserts a plastic piece into the quilt sandwich to hold all 3 layers together. Another form of basting.
Tacking:
Another name for tying a quilt.
Template:
A pattern made from an extra-sturdy material so you can trace around it many times without wearing away the edges. Acrylic templates for many common shapes are available at quilt shops. Templates can also be made by duplicating a printed paper pattern using template plastic, paper, cardboard, or sandpaper. Templates for machine piecing usually include seam allowances; those for hand piecing and applique do not. Mark the patch letter and grain-line arrow on each template for identification.
Tessellation:
A repeated, symmetrical design, where one image's boundaries forms a replica image. These are geometric shapes that interlock to fill an entire area, such as a tiled wall, or a quilt. The shapes fit snug together, with no overlap, and no gaps between each shape.
Thangles:
A commercial paper product used to make multiple Half Square Triangles at once.
Thimble:
A small dimpled cap, usually made of aluminum, steel, or copper, that has grooves in the dimple to first, protect the finger from injury from a needle, and secondly, to help maneuver the needle through the quilt sandwich when hand quilting.
Thread Baste:
The process of basting the quilt sandwich by means of using long, hand sewn stitches. Stitches usually start in center of the quilt and work outwards to the edges. These stitches are then removed after the final quilting has been completed.
Thread Count:
The number of threads in the warp x the number of threads in the weft. For example, a 200 thread count fabric means that the fabric has 100 threads to an inch for the warp, and 100 threads to the inch for the weft.
Thread:
Cotton fibers used for joining fabric pieces.
Tied Quilt:
Tying replaces machine or hand quilting. Instead of stitching as a means of holding the sandwich together, a series of ties (usually made with strands of perle cotton) are spaced about 3-5" apart all over the quilt. This is a common method of quilting a quillow.
Toile:
Pronounced "twäl," a fabric that has scenic images printed on it in a contrasting color to the background fabric. Traditionally only two-color fabrics, such as shades of blue on a cream background.
Tone On Tone:
Tone-on-Tone fabrics are those fabrics that have a print in a different shade or tint of the background fabric. For example, a dark purple background fabric with small lavender flowers on it. These fabrics tend to read as a "solid" when implemented in the quilt top. Also referred to as "tonal fabrics" or "TOT."
Top:
Short name for the quilt top.
Trapunto:
A dimensional design in a quilt by which closely sewn lines of stitching are stuffed with batting to make them appear 3-dimensional, or raised from the surface. A common style to use in Whole Cloth quilts.
Trompe l'oeil:
French term for "deceive the eye". Figuratively used to refer to paintings, or landscape quiltings, which appear to be realistic. This is especially true in the case of 3-Dimensional impressionistic works. (Think of traditional tumbling blocks where you get the impression of depth on a flat surface.)
Tufting:
Same as tying.
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U
UFO:
Short for UnFinished Object/project. Term used for all of the quilt tops, or partly pieced tops, that are awaiting final completion.
Unit:
Name given to one component of a quilt block.
Utility Quilt:
Name given to simple quilts, often tied, that are made to use for everyday bedding.
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V
Velour:
Cotton, wool, or synthetic fibered fabric that has a thick pile and a sheen to the surface. You would likely use this in Crazy Quilting.
Velveteen:
Cotton or synthetic fibered fabric that is closely woven, and unlike Velvet, has a shorter pile (nap) on it. You would likely use this in Crazy Quilting.
Velvet:
Cotton or synthetic fibered fabric that is closely woven and has a thick.
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W
WIP:
Work In Progress. (also known as UFO)
WOF:
Width Of Fabric.
WOW:
Fabric that is White printing on top of White background fabric. Also known as "White on White."
Wadding:
Another name for batting.
Walking Foot:
An attachment for the sewing machine that replaces the Straight Stitch foot and helps to guide the top fabric and the bottom fabric of the quilt sandwich evenly through the sewing machine. Also known as "even-feed foot" or "dual-feed foot".
Wall Hanging:
A smallish quilt usually made specifically for displaying on a wall.
Warp:
See also weft.The long threads that run from the bottom to the top of the material. Warp threads intersect the weft threads. These are the threads that are put on the loom with tension and are raised and lowered to allow the weft threads to be passed through. The warp threads run parallel to the selvage, the most stable direction of the fabric.
Watercolor Quilt:
A quilt made up of many, many small squares (usually only 1 or 2" in size), sewn together to create a new design in the quilt top. Overall impression of the quilt top is that of an Impressionistic Painting.
Weft:
See also warp.The long threads that run side to side of the width of the material. The weft threads are perpendicular to the warp threads, and less stable.
White on White:
Fabric that is White printing on top of White background fabric. Commonly called WOW.
Whitework Quilting:
Similar to whitework, but, whitework quilting is the method of quilting with white thread on white fabric. Also called whole cloth quilting, or trapunto work.
Whitework:
Similar to redwork, whitework is the style of embroidery using white thread on white fabric.
Whole Cloth:
A quilt top that is one whole piece of fabric elaborately quilted using various quilting styles, such as trapunto.
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X
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Y
Yo Yo:
Fabric circles that are gathered, flattened, and joined to make a lightweight, unbacked coverlet. Single yo-yos can be used for applique.
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Z
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